On July 27, 2017, the Official Journal of the European Union published Commission Decision (EU) 2017/1392, revising the original EU ecolabel standard for textiles 2014/350/EU. Chinese exporters of eco-textiles to the EU should take note.
Resolution 2014/350/EU, issued by the EU on June 13, 2014, sets the ecological standards for EU ecolabel certification of textiles. This standard defines the scope of textiles, stipulates restrictions on the use of harmful chemicals, highlights the limits of substances of very high concern (SVHCs) from the REACH Candidate List, and clarifies the environmental guidelines to be followed in all processes of textile production and processing.
This revision makes several amendments to Resolution 2014/350/EU and its annexes. Most importantly, it extends the validity period of the ecolabel certification for textiles from June 2018 to 78 months from the date of adoption of the resolution, i.e., January 2024. Other revisions include: revising the definitions of various textile fibers to which the resolution applies, allowing semi-finished textiles to also qualify for ecolabel certification; modifying Annex 14(b)(iv) concerning restrictions on the use of waterproof, dustproof, and stain-resistant treatments to align with similar regulations for footwear and furniture products; adding detergents to Annex 1, the list of restricted substances for EU eco-textiles; and revising the standards for textile colorfastness.
The "EU Eco-label" is a voluntary labeling scheme introduced by the EU in 1992. Manufacturers affix the label to products that meet the relevant standards, indicating that their products reduce the impact on the environment. The application for the ecolabel is expensive, and the application standards are quite strict. Obtaining the ecolabel not only helps to improve product quality and win a wider customer base, but also provides a passport for products to sell well in "Greater Europe." Because the ecolabel certification is stricter than other EU entry regulations, the ecolabel established by the EU is recognized in its existing 25 member states and other countries in the European Economic Area.
With the concept of green living becoming increasingly popular, more and more textile exporters are actively pursuing eco-textile certification. The EU uses two main "green" labels in the textile field: the EU Eco-label and OEKO-TEX Standard 100. The former's standards cover multiple aspects, including textile raw materials, production, the product itself, and durability, while the latter mainly focuses on the textile product itself. The former is stricter than the latter. Currently, the former is developing more slowly, while the latter is numerous and widespread globally. Other textile "green" labels in the EU market, such as the Nordic Swan and the Dutch environmental label, are mainly regional and have far less impact than the Eco-label and OEKO-TEX Standard 100. Compared to developed countries, China's eco-textile technical requirements are relatively low. The current "Technical Requirements for Eco-Textiles" (GB/T 18885-2009) has been in effect since January 1, 2010, for nearly 8 years without revision, while the Eco-label is supplemented and revised every 3-5 years, and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is revised annually. Therefore, in China's eco-textile standards, the limit values of toxic and harmful substances such as formaldehyde, heavy metals lead, cadmium, and phthalates are far behind the EU's eco-textile standards, and the gap is gradually widening. Parts of the Chinese standards that do not meet the EU ecological standards will become obstacles to the export of Chinese textiles.
Inspection and quarantine departments remind companies applying for ecolabel certification to closely monitor international eco-textile regulations. They should also actively conduct technological research and development, seeking "green" processes and relatively environmentally friendly raw materials, aligning with the most stringent international standards, and reducing the risk of exceeding the limits of toxic and harmful substances.
